Alaska Adventure Diary
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Over the 4th of July, we took a cruise tour of Alaska. From Vancouver, we cruised the Inside Passage of British Columbia and Alaska stopping at Ketchican, Juneau, Sitka, and Valdez. Disembarking at Seward, we drove northward for several days ending in Anchorage. This was a not-to-be-missed experience. We encourage everyone to go get one.
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June 29
Thursday, June 29

We arrived in Vancouver, transferred to the ship and ate a late buffet lunch. Then there was the requisite lifeboat drill. The ship sailed at 5PM, passed under the Lion Bridge and headed northwest.

June 30
July 1
Lion Bridge
Leaving Vancouver
July 2
July 3
July 4
July 5
It was cloudy but not raining. High in the 60s. We passed Pt. Atkinson and its lighthouse. Dinner was casual: stuffed prawns for me although I would have been happy just eating the black bean soup!
July 6
July 7
Cloud on a mountain
Point Atkinson Light
July 8
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Friday, June 30

All day we cruised the inside passage on our way to our first port. The weather was cloudy but eventually cleared up and the temperature was close to 60. We spent most of the day on deck watching the scenery go by. Except, of course for the Royal Dutch Tea in the afternoon - tea or coffee and yummy pastries - heavy on the chocolate.

Inside passage
We passed McInnes Light and saw our first bald eagles. Dinner was formal and the Captain's reception was just before. We tried the onion soup and lobster bisque. Then I had sesame totted king salmon (the description on the menu); Dave had filet mignon "Oscar" (with crabmeat and Béarnaise sauce). Calories are not relevant.
McInnes Light
Inside passage
Inside Passage sunset After dinner, we enjoyed our first spectacular sunset around 10PM. By now, we were pretty relaxed and into cruising.
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Saturday, July 1

We left the British Columbia coast and continued on to Alaska. At 6:30 AM, we docked in Ketchican. The weather was good and the temperature in the high 60s in the afternoon.

Ketchican View of Ketchican from deck
Tlingit natives live and work in Saxman Native Village that we visited. They maintain the facility with tourism but also sell totems they carve to people and institutions around the world.
A Tlingit story
Tlingit dance
Eagle totem Old totem
Most of the carving is done with handmade adzes to give authentic texture. Many of the young people are learning the language and customs to keep their culture alive. The bus dropped us off "downtown" at Creek Street.
Leaving Ketchican
Creek Street
Creek Street is a former red light district that is now a tourist magnet. (Or is that the same thing?) We left Ketchican at 2:30 heading northwest again.
Cruising the Inside Passage of Alaska means lots of twists and turns among the many islands. They are sparsely inhabited - you see a fishing boat, ferry, or another cruise ship now and then. Mostly, however, it is sky, water, and mountains. The weather was a mixture of clouds and sun.
Cruising along
These waters are home to many animals. We saw porpoises, whales, and lots of eagles. Thar be whales! Crusin' More cruisin'
Most days we ate breakfast and lunch in the Lido. There also was hot spiced cider and hot chocolate served on deck in the afternoon. Of course, there was always food available someplace but we had to be selective or buy new clothes. I think some of our shipmates chose the latter. Anyhow - dinner was casual (no jeans or shorts) and was "Canadian Night" That means red balloons and Canadian Flags. We ate Parmesan Crusted Turkey Breast Escalope and Steamed King Crab Legs (guess which one I had - yummm).
Cape Decision Lighthouse After dinner, I tried the show "Comedy Ventriloquist, Brad Cummings" but couldn't stick it out. Too many shopworn jokes. But then, out on deck, another spectacular sunset! Who needs canned entertainment?
Another spectacular sunset
Looking away from the setting sun
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Sunday, July 2

We docked in Juneau at 7:15AM - another partly cloudy day, but luckily still no rain. After breakfast, we go ashore to take the tramway to the top of Mt. Roberts, 3,819 feet above sea level . At the top, we walked the nature trail through an alpine meadow.

Tree totem
The totem carved on the tree is one of four. This one is Yeil, the Raven. This was also our first real test of Deep Woods Off. Good thing it worked well - those mosquitos really are huge! Dave on Mt. Roberts
Mt. Robert's trails Alpine flowers Knarled trees
And then the time came for the real adventure - a floatplane trip to Taku Wilderness Lodge. An eight passenger Otter - very reliable, they say. The pilot has been flying around Alaska since the age of 15. So we go for it. Our floatplane
Close-up mountain view We got up close and personal with the mountains and valley overviews. From the air, the flow of glaciers is striking. Flowing glacier
Valley view
Then we arrived at our destination, Taku Wilderness Lodge, built in 1923 as a hunting and fishing lodge. It has an interesting history full of early Alaska notables (eccentrics). We arrived in early afternoon and immediately went to the lodge for lunch: freshly caught salmon grilled over alder wood on the grill just outside, good molasses baked beans, cole slaw, steamed apples, herb biscuits, and ginger cookies for desert. I don't know whether it was the location or the food itself was just incredible but we thoroughly enjoyed it.
Taku Lodge
Bear warning sign
After lunch, we took a stroll along the nature trails behind the lodge and sat on the bench looking across the river toward on of the glaciers that feed the Taku River. So quiet and peaceful. The blue color of the glaciers is caused by the structure of the highly compacted ice which absorbs other colors and only reflects the blue. Taku Rriver and Hole-in-the-Wall glacier
Glacier close-up
Snow on glacier We, unfortunately, leave the lodge after a couple of hours and head back to the ship by a different route - just as spectacular! Tree reflections from the air Air view of glacial valley
Juneau Before dinner, we look around "downtown" Juneau - not much space to build a city. We stopped in some tourist shops and were interested to see some shops had internet access being used by the ship's crew.
Again, we had partly sunny weather with no rain, high near 60. Dress for dinner was casual. I had yummy cream of mushroom soup with basil latte and the seafood mixed grill. Dave had the Prosciutto wrapped chicken Cordon Blue (spelling from the menu). At 9PM we left port heading for Sitka, a short hop. We spent some time on deck watching the mountains but this night was the Desert Extravaganza, a not-to-be-missed event, at 11:00. And so to bed....
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Monday, July 3

The Nieuw Amsterdam dropped anchor at Sitka around 9AM. There are no docking facilities for cruise ships in Sitka so we had to use a tender (lifeboat) to go ashore. We didn't get to shore until late morning. Since our tour wasn't until mid afternoon, we walked through town and ate lunch at a hotel. The Russian church here actually is a reconstruction since the original burned down.

Ship anchored at Sitka St. Michael the Archangel Cathedral
mountains as we approach Sitka Active volcano near Sitka Transfer to shore by tender
Bald Eagle - up close and personal The weather was sunny with temperatures in the 60s. A great day for a land/water tour. After lunch at a hotel restaurant with a fine view, we boarded the land (bus) part of our tour. Our driver, Al (weird Al to Dave), was most concerned that he would deliver us to the appointed rendevous with the boat on time. We took a quick swing through town which, admittedly, wouldn't take long even if you lingered, and made our only stop at the Raptor Center. Here, bald eagles, golden eagles and other birds are nursed back to health to be re-released. Some of them, unfortunately, are too damaged having lost parts of wings. These make their home here and are displayed to emphasize the need to protect them.
Eagle exercising
Al was successful in our on-time delivery. Actually, we were early so he took us to The-End-of-the-Road - literally - only seven miles outside of downtown Sitka. This is another city that cannot be reached by roads. We transferred to the boat for our tour of the many, many islands that are Sitka. Some are uninhabited, some have one or two houses, all have eagles. Very pretty and very isolated. We barely made it back to shore in time for the last tender. Sitka islands Sitka islands
Fake lighthouse
The Nieuw Amsterdam pulled up anchor at 6PM heading NW.
Back on the ship, dinner was informal (jacket, no tie) and was the "Dutch" menu. We both had the "Gebakken Tong" (Dover sole ). As usual, we skipped the show, line dancing, and Bingo. Instead we drank a little, gambled a little, and watched the scenery late into the day.
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Tuesday, July 4, Independence Day

The ship was due to cruise the face of the Hubbard Glacier around 9 - 10AM. So, when I woke up at 6:00 (hours after dawn), I threw on some clothes and went up on deck to look. Oh My Gosh!!!! I ran back down to the cabin, woke Dave up, grabbed the camera and took the first picture of several rolls that morning.

Hubbard Glacier
First look at Hubbard Glacier
Watching the ice floes
Glaciers are awesome. We slowly cruised Hubbard Glacier for a couple of hours, avoiding the ice floes. No danger of sinking the ship, but they have been known to damage the propellers. Some were pretty big and were resting places for seals. Some broke up in our wake as we passed. The number of ships allowed in waters near most glaciers is limited so that the beauty and quiet are not ruined.
Hubbard Glacier
Hubbard Glacier Ice carving on deck
Hubbard Glacier Seals on the ice floes On deck in the afternoon, the kitchen staff demonstrated ice carving.
The theme for dinner (formal) was, of course, American. The dining room was decorated with red, white, and blue balloons and American flags. For dinner, I had New England Lobster tails and Dave had Beef Wellington. Dessert was, traditionally, baked Alaska adorned with sparklers and marched in by the dining room staff.
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Wednesday, July 5

In the morning we experience our only rainy weather, some sort of record, I'm sure. We docked in Valdez early - not a particularly quaint town since it's claim to fame is that it is at the end of the Alaska Pipeline. The other major fact is that its current location is four miles from the original which fell into the sea in the 1964 eathquake/tsunami. We took the morning bus tour north, up Richardson Highway, through the mountains, to Worthington Glacier. On the way, we stopped at a couple of waterfalls by the road. They were actually formed when the road was built.

Bridal Veil Falls
Worthington glacier
There was a kiosk, restrooms, and pathways, a la the National Park Service, at the glacier. It was drizzling and cloudy but that gave it an interesting atmosphere. It's a receding glacier so they keep extending the pathways, following it up the valley. Worthington Glacier close up
Leaving Valdez We left Valdez at noon in foggy drizzle. After lunch, the kitchen and dining room staff gave demonstrations on carving fruits and vegetables, napkin folding and making marzipan decorations. Watermelon carving
We continued on to Prince William Sound and College Fjord with the weather improving rapidly. More than 15 glaciers can be seen cruising the fjord, Harvard, Yale, Columbia, etc. It's spectacular! All passengers (and crew) are on deck.
Harvard glacier Harvard Glacier Glacier Glacier
Ice floe
Prince William Sound
This is our last night on board. Dinner is casual but delicious: "Sesame Potato Crusted Coho Salmon Fillet with light lobster jus lie" for both of us (what could be better?) As usual, we skipped the show and stayed awake to catch another beautiful sunset, in Prince William Sound. The actual time for sunset at this point was 11:19PM; sunrise at 4:21AM.
Prince William Sound
Prince William Sound
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Thursday, July 6

Very early in the morning we dock in Seward. Disembarcation starts at 8AM and we have to be out of our rooms. Since we aren't catching a plane or other public transport, we are in the final group of about 30 people. Dave had to go to the airport to pick up the rental car, so we didn't actually get on the road til late morning. We had coffee and pastry with the fisherman on the left. It is, again, a lovely day - almost too warm.

Lupine
Seward coffeeshop
We drive and walk around Seward for a while and get familiar with the vast amount of travel materials provided by the cruise line - maps, books, brochures, etc. We eat at a seafood restaurant near the water halibut and chips. We head up a glacial valley toward Exit Glacier. It is one of the few that are so accessible that you can walk up and touch it. Exit Glacier is receding fast. There are markers along the path that have dates when the glacier reached to that point. Here you can get a good idea of how the land recovers after being covered by glaciers for thousands of years. Glacial run-off feeds most of the rivers and waterfalls and contains glacial "flour" which is very fine gray dirt. More about this later. Exit Glacier
Glacial plain
Exit Glacier - close up
Fireweed So we now travel "The Most Scenic Highway" in the US. Incredible!! Our route today takes us to Alyeska, about halfway to Anchorage. Not very far in miles, but we stopped about every 50 feet just to look.
Waterfall at the side of the road
Lake Kenai Pink flowers Snowy mountain view
Lake Kenai
Seward Highway
Roadside view Seward Highway Seward Highway
More scenic views! Around every turn.
Alyeska is a really small town which has a brand new ski resort where we were staying. After we checked in, we took the tram to the top of Mt. Alyeska. There was a snack bar and the top of the chair lift, a map of the ski runs and, of course, the avalanche gun. The view of Turnagain Arm at low tide was fantastic.
Turnagain Arm from Mt. Alyeska Hiker's warning
Dave on Mt. Alyeska Looking down on the resort On top of Mt. Alyeska
Alaskan Cotton Back down at the resort, we ate dinner and then took a stroll in the garden behind. It is lush with ferns, daisies, Alaskan Cotton, other plants and huge mosquitos. Mt. Alyeska tram
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Turnagain Arm Turnagain arm
Friday, July 7

Back on the Seward Highway toward Anchorage, again we stop frequently to enjoy the scenic beauty. We scan the mountains for goats and Dall sheep which are numerous in the area. Easier said than done, however. But finally we watch several groups climbing around rocks high above us at Beluga Point.

Mountain goat
Off the highway, we found a small village, Eklutna, which still has an active Russian Orthodox parish, St. Nicolas. There was a main church, a couple of chapels, including the children's chapel, and a cemetery full of spirit houses in bright colors. And many large mosquitos. Children's chapel at Eklutna
Ekluna church Inside of Eklutna church Spirit house in cemetary
Continuing on, we eventually arrived at Talkeetna Lodge. Built just a year ago, it is one of the few "modern" places to stay in the area. It has become a base camp for exploring Denali Park and has a wonderful view of Mt. McKinley (locally known as Denali), the highest peak in North America at a little more than 20,000 feet.
Columbine
Welcome to Talkeetna We ventured into town to see if the rumors were true that this is the town that Northern Exposure was modeled after. It certainly is possible! The right look, the same mixture of mountain men, hippies, and other odd individuals.
Some kind of red flowers
Nagley's Store, Talkeetna Talketna roadhouse Main Street, Talkeetna
Denali
Back at the lodge, we ate a nice dinner, took pictures in the garden, and enjoyed another spectacular sunset. The gardens were planted in old fashioned and wild flowers with several different varieties of bleeding-heart and columbine, among others. Very nice. Denali is the big mountain in the pictures. Of course, staying awake for sunset was the hard part. At around 11:30, I gave up and went to bed.
Sunset at 11PM
Denali
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Saturday, July 8

Unfortunately, our last full day in Alaska. Breakfast at the resort involved berries and baby greens. We packed up ans set out, again, for Talkeetna - it's only twelve miles but about 70 years back. This Saturday was the beginning of the famous Talkeetna Moose Dropping Festival. The 5K run was nearly over by the time we arrived and parked on the airstrip (dirt and gravel, but no trees.). The flyer given to us by the parking guy warned that we had to be gone by 5:30 when the airstrip would reopen.

The parade consisted of: the color guard (at left); a Highland Band from Anchorage (at right); nurses from the local clinic; a float (car) with a bad moose dropping joke; two snow plows (below); the equestrian unit (below - the guys in the back had side arms strapped on and big ol' Bowie knives hanging from their belts); the Iditochicks (?); and a few assorted one-man units (a dog cart, a unicycle). The parade took ten minutes to go down Main Street and ten minutes back.
Here comes the parade Anchorage Highlanders
BIG snow plow Really BIG snow plow Equestrian Unit
Besides the race and the parade, the festival included booths for food and crafts. Looked like most aging hippies have moved to Alaska. There were tied dyed shirts, reindeer boots, beads of all sorts, and various food. I had delicious corn chowder in a sourdough bowl - nice and spicy with chopped spring onions on top. Unfortunately, we had to miss the lumberjacking contest and, darn it, Sunday's Mountain Mama contest. But we had to get to Anchorage.
Talkeetna Town Square
In Anchorage we walked around and "experienced" the 1964 earthquake in a little museum, shopped a little and were amazed by the size and color of the flowers in the park. For dinner, we went to the Wild Goose Brew Pub. Alaska has uncountable brew pubs and drive-in espresso shops.
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Sunday, July 9

Sadly, we packed up in the morning and flew back to reality.

Alaska, unlike most places we have visited that were on our must-see-someday list, is still on the list. Put it on yours, too.